About desserts and new things: René Frank

When something new emerges from the familiar, Michelin-star chef René Frank is not far away. Once in his dessert restaurant CODA in Berlin, where he combines a wide variety of ingredients to create surprising taste experiences - or on the road, where he drives a Cupra Formentor. A visit with the renowned patissier, including a lesson in recombining.
Text Alfred Rzyski
Photo Alexandra Kinga Fekete

The new? René Frank simply likes it. And for him, it's practically his purpose in life because in his unique dessert restaurant CODA, the 37-year-old not only combines a wide variety of culinary influences but also creates something completely unique from them. This doesn't just mean the flavors of his dishes but the processes itself. The attitude of the creator himself included, of course. Would you like an example? There are the cocoa beans that he uses to make chocolate for his restaurant. A complex process that costs time and money - but is very important to Frank. Not only because of the quality that is ensured in this way, but also because of the conscious handling of the products.

But the patissier also likes to take on challenges in other ways, as he explains with regards to his career and CODA: »I would have to lie if I said it was easy. Especially because for a long time there was also headwind from the side of the critics, who didn't want to understand why we didn't just buy chocolate, for example, but made it ourselves in an elaborate way.« His success, however, has proven him right. In 2016, he opened Germany's first dessert restaurant, and his courage paid off: CODA now has two stars in the Michelin Guide, and Frank is a brand ambassador for the CUPRA design and performance brand. A unique development - like the seven-course dessert menu itself. How that, in turn, comes about?

»I remember the taste of many things I ate as a child. In addition, I am insanely fond of trying unknown products. And there is actually no good quality product that doesn't taste good when prepared consciously. I often go the route of remembering a taste, a dish, and then trying to achieve that taste with alternative products. In the process, something new inevitably emerges.«

You could also say in short: creative recombination of excellent ingredients and a smart recipe. In the process, watermelon sometimes meets algae, but also cocoa meets plum flavor on pasture-raised pork. The result is anything but an ordinary dessert. With exact quantity, temperature, and time specifications, Frank's result is always identical - but above all outstanding. He draws inspiration from Spain, France, and even Japan. The end product? A culinary world map in seven courses. Currently, the CODA menu offers:

The only question that remains is why René Frank drives a Formentor. Whereby that actually makes a lot of sense: after all, we already mentioned the thing with taste, excellent ingredients, and an intelligent recipe.

ramp shop

Latest articles

Kink Bar & Restaurant

The name is short, but your visit should be long. Because the Kink offers pretty much everything that makes Berlin a special place for culinary connoisseurs and aficionados of good style.

The King of Cool and his tool

How to stay sane during crazy times? Keep cool! To prove our point, a quick fast-paced trip back to the sixties and seventies. We even found the right time machine for the job. Possible risks and side effects? California Dreamin’!

Space Exploration Day: we explore the ramp universe

Fifty-two years ago today, Apollo 11 landed on the moon making Neil Armstrong the first man to set foot on Earth's satellite. That's exactly what »National Space Exploration Day» is all about in the USA. We are excited to join in and celebrate. Exploring our own little universe in a good mood, including ambitious »moonshots«.

Time for Russian Disco: Wladimir Kaminer turns 54!

Wladimir Kaminer discovered the car for himself late in life. More precisely: with ramp. After six stories, the bestselling author had his driver's licence, and after 53 editions, he added his own ramp podcast. And now? Wladimir is 54 years old! On his birthday, we look back at his best ramp moments.